Conner Ives, an American-born designer based in London, has made headlines with his impactful fashion statement during the fall 2025 runway show at London Fashion Week. In late February, Ives ended the performance each night wearing a t-shirt that said, in big bold letters, “Protect the Dolls.” He selected this title intentionally to draw attention to the broad socio-political landscape of anti-transgender enactments in the U.S.
The designer’s aesthetic is defined by dazzling eveningwear and a high-fashion take on upcycling. Ives decided to wear the t-shirt on purpose as a direct statement. It sent an incredibly important message by doing so, especially in response to the U.S. administration’s persistent campaign to erase transgender people from public life. Ives had originally thought about the slogan We <3 the Dolls. He decided to switch it up six months before the show to call attention to how urgently advocacy for trans rights is needed in our society today.
Here, shortly after the show, Ives responded with this hilarious, emoji laced, text message. He made a funny about Pedro Pascal getting recognized after PopBase posted a video of his appearance. This amusing exchange underscored the t-shirt’s transformation from a simple garment into a viral sensation, embraced by pop stars, designers, and actors alike.
The popularity of Ives’s t-shirt launched it into an instant wardrobe staple, with sales bringing in nearly $1 million to support trans lives. The designer spoke enthusiastically about his groundbreaking initiative throughout the event. He wanted to create a powerful visual op that would get people really thinking about what it means to stand in solidarity with marginalized communities. To ensure the t-shirt’s message was respectful and impactful, Ives consulted with trans model Hunter Pifer before finalizing his design.
“Honestly, I used to think that my pretty face and press releases were getting my message across,” said Ives. During the last six months, I’ve gone through a radical change. At least in the United States, that kind of compartmentalization is not pertinent anymore.”
The day after the runway show, Ives opened pre-orders for the t-shirt, employing a now-famous backstage photo as promotional material. As of April 13, he said he had sold more than 1,088 t-shirts, with all profits going directly to Trans Lifeline. Once they took out production, shipping and order fulfillment costs, the donations to the cause have topped more than $70,000.
Now looking back on his career, Ives draws inspiration from the support of trans women during his entire transition, especially the beginning. He wants to pay tribute to them through practice and design. He continued, “These girls are epic!” Now as then in the ‘90s when I stood on the sidelines watching supermodels strut down the runways with the same thrill I recall feeling the first time he saw these models go off, he
Ives shares a deep conviction that fashion needs to be relevant to today’s challenges. He says, “Fashion in the 21st century needs to be hyper-reactive, and you have to discover a smart way of doing that.” He emphasized the importance of collaborating with trans-led organizations for authentic representation and support: “Going directly to trans people with a trans-led organization was the most clear to me.”