The iconic bullet bra, a staple from the 1940s and 1950s, is making a striking comeback in the fashion world. Once popular during both World War I and II, the bullet bra earned its name from the distinctive pointed shape it gave to the breasts, resembling a bullet. Also known as the torpedo bra, this unique design has found its way back onto the runways, capturing the attention of designers and fashion enthusiasts alike.
The bullet bra's signature shape was achieved through the use of bias-cut fabric, which molded the breast into a triangular form. This design was a key element of the pinup girl look, emblematic of femininity and allure during its peak years. Recently, designer Contessa Mills has reinvented this classic with her creation of the Seraphim bullet-bra-and-knicker set, made in luxurious shades of black and champagne silk.
"My goal was to blend the timeless allure of full-coverage lingerie with modern comfort," said Contessa Mills regarding her Seraphim set.
While Mills reimagines the classic style, Araks has introduced a softer version with their Willow bralette. Crafted from silk charmeuse and gossamer-like cotton, this piece maintains the essence of the bullet bra's shape while offering contemporary comfort. According to designer Yeramyan, "A pointier boob definitely accentuates and brings attention to the female form," highlighting the enduring appeal of this bold silhouette.
The bullet bra also played a pivotal role in Miu Miu's fall 2025 show in Paris, where models strutted down the runway wearing these bras paired with candy pink knits and logo'd tops. This resurgence signifies a growing trend towards embracing retro designs that celebrate and accentuate feminine curves.
"It feels subversive in a time when women's bodies are so heavily censored in the media," Yeramyan remarked on the renewed interest in bullet bras.
Additionally, the A Bra That Fits community has been promoting the Jeunique bra as a modern alternative. This is currently the only bra on the market that retains the traditional cut of vintage bullet bras. For collectors like Illisa, who possesses about a thousand bullet bras from the '40s and '50s, these modern adaptations offer a nostalgic yet refreshing perspective on lingerie.
"When bullet bras came out, the saying about them was the pointier the better," Illisa shared enthusiastically.
The discussion about femininity and its expression through fashion continues to evolve. As Sarah Mower pondered, "The typical accessories of femininity: the bra, the brooches, the fur. The question is, what do we retain of femininity? Does it help in this really dangerous moment? In wartime?"